
Unveiling the Little-Known History of the RIHGA Royal Hotel’s Wine Collection Part 1 (RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka Master Sommelier Oka Masaharu)
The World of Delicacies Vol.3
The RIHGA Royal Hotel has long been celebrated for its commitment to culinary excellence, a testament to the invaluable experience acquired in France and the unwavering dedication of its staff. This interview will unveil the little-known history of the RIHGA Royal Hotel’s journey in the pursuit of perfecting the art of wine.
Starting from scratch without a wine cellar
I can’t believe it’s already been 46 years since I began my journey as a sommelier here at the RIHGA Royal Hotel. Although I consider our basement wine cellar a remarkable accomplishment, the journey to this point has certainly been challenging.
It was 1973 when “Restaurant Chambord” opened its doors with the first chef, André Louis Vendreux France, the year after I joined the RIHGA Royal Hotel. Following the Japan World Exposition in 1970, Japan saw the heyday of French restaurants during the 1970s. Numerous skilled chefs, having honed their craft in France, opened their own restaurants in Japan one after another. Among them was Inoue Noboru, the owner of “Chez Inno,” who played a pivotal role in cultivating the appreciation for French cuisine in the country. In response to such a trend, Hirose Shozo, who later became the president of the RIHGA Royal Hotel, enthusiastically suggested that we should “ride the tide and put more effort into wine,” and we collected all the big five of Bordeaux. However, the hotel was not equipped with a temperature-controlled wine cellar at the time and only had wine racks; therefore, we had to store wine bottles upside down so that the corks would not dry out. Even though we had a professional French chef, we had no professional sommeliers and little to no knowledge about wine.
Learning to respect the producers at an authentic winery
Around 1980, wine cellars were added to both the basement and the “Restaurant Chambord,” and I was sent to France for sommelier training. I trained at wineries rather than restaurants, as they provide the opportunity to immerse oneself in the world of French winemaking. You can drink French wine in Japan, but you can’t have such first-hand experience staying in Japan. Looking back, it was such an invaluable experience for me.
I first stayed in a town in southeastern France called Tain-l’Hermitage, famous for Rhône wine. I was the only Japanese in a small town with a population of about 6,000, so many people came just to get a glimpse of me. After that, I went to Burgundy in the northeast, one of the most famous wine-producing regions in France. The climate is completely different from that of Tain-l’Hermitage, so their wines are also completely different. It was a wonderful opportunity to experience such a difference in terroir firsthand.
I also learned how to properly serve wine to customers there. White wine and champagne, which are often drunk first, are kept in the restaurant’s refrigerator for quick serving. Conversely, red wine, which is often drunk later in the meal, should be taken out of the cellar when served. I learned how to perfect the art of serving wine even in a limited space.
Speaking of France, I have another memorable experience there. When I went to a fine dining restaurant, which I went to partly for a learning experience, I tasted wine that had a musty smell. I smelled bouchonné, like spoilt wine. I told the sommelier about it, but the sommelier responded coldly and acted suspicious of me, probably wanting to say, “You are Japanese. You know nothing about wine.” However, after the sommelier tasted the wine and found out that it was indeed bouchonné, the sommelier offered me a free glass of wine as an apology. I thought that was very professional.
At the wineries, I was able to work closely with the winemakers and learned the entire process of winemaking, from grape harvesting to pressing, vinification, and bottling. This experience deepened not only my knowledge of wine but also my love for wine, which further nurtured my passion for providing attentive service to customers.
(The story of his struggles as a sommelier after his return to Japan will be featured in Part 2 of the article)

RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka Master Sommelier Oka Masaharu
Born in Osaka in 1953, Oka Masaharu joined the ROYAL HOTEL Co.,Ltd. in March 1972. He is one of the leading sommeliers in Japan and has won awards at numerous wine competitions. His charming smile and humorous banter have won him many fans. In 2003, he was awarded Chevalier of the “Ordre du Mérite Agricole” of France for his contribution to the promotion of French cuisine and wine, and in 2011, he received the Japanese Medal with Yellow Ribbon. After serving as the president of the Japan Sommelier Association for about six years, he is now the honorary president since 2016.