Exquisite French Cuisine Inspired by the “Terroir” of Hiroshima
The World of Delicacies Vol.3
RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima Restaurant CHAMBORD Chef Haruta Yoshihiko
The RIHGA Royal Hotel has long been celebrated for its dedication to culinary artistry, a reflection of the exceptional expertise acquired at three-starred restaurants and prestigious hotels in France. This interview gives you a taste of the passion and dedication of the chef that goes into a delectable dish served at the RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima.
“Aromatic Grilled Managatsuo with Gelee made with Dried Megahira Fragrant Maitake Mushrooms”. Managatsuo (Japanese harvestfish) are in season during the summer, when they migrate to the Seto Inland Sea to reproduce. The best way to truly appreciate the deep umami flavor packed in their meat and skin is to grill quickly over high heat. Pairing them with “Megahira Fragrant Maitake Mushrooms” grown in the Megahira Kogen in Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, even further enhances the rich flavor. Dried maitake mushrooms are steeped in water for a full day before being simmered down to create a luscious sauce. Adding this exquisite, fragrant aroma to the fish elevates the dish into something extraordinary.
Exploring the culture of “terroir” in France
The word “terroir” usually refers to the environmental factors, such as soil and climate, that have an effect on vineyards, but in the culinary world, it means “to make the most of the local specificity.” My first encounter with “terroir” was when I stayed in France for six months on a RIHGA Royal Hotel training program.
All the chefs I met there were dedicated to utilizing locally sourced ingredients to their fullest potential, and I learned from them that the “terroir” plays a vital role in protecting and fostering local producers and food culture, ultimately contributing to a sustainable society. The concept of “terroir” encompassed a much greater significance than I had originally imagined.
The French are always honest about their opinions on food and ingredients. Similarly, in the workplace, there is no age hierarchy, and everybody freely expresses their opinions with one another. What I learned from their working style and mindset has not only profoundly enriched my culinary expertise but also hugely contributed to my personal development.
Hiroshima salmon, Gion parsley, tomatoes, lemons, and other ingredients sourced within Hiroshima Prefecture.
Creating astonishing dishes unknown ingredients from Hiroshima Prefecture
At Restaurant Chambord, I strive to transform local products that even locals don’t know about into exquisite French cuisine. Therefore, I always try to keep an open mind, discard any preconceived notions, and enjoy surprising encounters with new Hiroshima ingredients. In fact, I cultivated this attitude through an unexpected encounter with Gion parsley, a traditional Hiroshima vegetable.
One day, I opened the refrigerator in the restaurant’s kitchen and found a dark green, round-shaped vegetable. Each leaf was finely shriveled and resembled parsley but didn’t appear exactly like it. I wondered what it could possibly be (laughs). I was surprised to learn that it was actually parsley and was even more surprised by its rich aroma and tenderness. I’ve also participated in a tour where we went around learning about local products of Hiroshima and got to know Hiroshima salmon, Managatsuo, “Megahira Fragrant Maitake Mushrooms,” “Megahira Abalone Mushrooms,” scallions, Komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach), and a variety of other products of Hiroshima. Each possesses its own unique charm, and they all motivate me to create dishes that genuinely honor their uniqueness. For example, Hiroshima salmon has a refreshing flavor, making it ideal for low-temperature cooking to achieve that delightful melt-in-your-mouth sensation. Also, thanks to my access to the freshest Managatsuo with the scales still intact, I can create dishes that highlight its freshness. The possibilities are limitless. I’m currently developing a recipe with Komatsuna, and I’m trying to come up with the best way to showcase its delicate tenderness.
I would love for my guests to not only immerse themselves in the world of the natural splendor of Hiroshima but also to encounter delightful surprises through my creations. I would like to continue to pursue my idea of the “Terroir of Hiroshima” with deep gratitude to the local producers and the blessings of nature.
RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima
Restaurant CHAMBORD
Chef Haruta Yoshihiko
Chef Haruta Yoshihiko joined the RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka in March 1999. Having trained at three-star French restaurants, “Auberge du Vieux Puits” and “Le Meurice,” Haruta became sous chef at “Restaurant Chambord” and later chef at the “Kuroyon Royal Hotel.” In April 2022, Haruta took the position of head chef at “Restaurant Chambord” and “Sky Dining RIHGA TOP” at the RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima. In November 2013, Haruta received the “Naniwa Master Craftsman Wakaba Award” for his exceptional culinary artistry and for his dedication to mentoring the next generation of chefs.
RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima
Restaurant CHAMBORD
Phone: +81(0) 82-228-5473 (direct)
*All pictures shown are for illustration purposes only.
*All prices include tax.
*All products are subject to renewal or discontinuation without notice.
*Guests must be 13 years old or older.
*Male guests are required to wear a collared shirt.
